 
Understanding Wash and Dry (Back to Menu)
Washing and Drying can be the most overlooked step during a detail, however, in reality is one of the most important steps. You may be asking yourself how washing and drying can be so important. The reason is because many of the imperfections in your paint (scratches, swirl marks, water spots, etc.) are caused due to improper washing and drying techniques. Our goal is to teach you how to effectively remove contamination while minimizing the possibility of creating more imperfections in your paint.
The above diagram displays a cross section of your clear coat and what happens as you wash and dry your paint. The picture will change every 5 seconds to show the before and after effects of washing and drying. Notice how you go from moderate contamination to minor surface contamination. Keep in mind this may not always be visible contamination. Your paint may not be perfectly clean and prepped for the next step with just washing.
Recommended Products:
• (2x) Quality Wash Mitts
• (1x) A good lubricating automotive shampoo
• (1-2x) Quality Drying Towels
• (2x) 5 Gallon Wash Buckets
• (1x) Water Supply and Hose
• (1x) Bug and Tar Degreaser and/or Block
Why do I need these products you may ask? Start with two wash mitts. Is one good enough? We strongly encourage using two wash mitts for many reasons. The main reason is your lower panels, front and rear bumpers, wheels and wheel wells get significantly dirtier than the rest of your vehicle and you do not want to be using the same mitt that just removed large particles of tar to touch your hood. Allocating one wash mitt just for those heavily contaminated areas is a smart move because you will not be using a contaminated wash mitt on your delicate paint. Using one mitt throughout is one major reason why people create swirls during the wash phase. Another reason we suggest using two wash mitts is that if you use one wash mitt for the entire vehicle, the life span of the mitt will be that much shorter due to heavy build up in one mitt. A heavily contaminated mitt requires you to purchase mitts more frequently and creates more risk to your paint. By allocating two wash mitts to your vehicle, you can choose one, preferably a Sheepskin Wash Mitt, for the parts of your vehicle that do not get extremely contaminated (from the knees up) and a second one, perhaps a more durable Microfiber Wash Mitt, for the areas of that see the most contamination (from the knees down).
A good lubricating shampoo is crucial when trying to safely remove contamination. Without proper lubrication you would be pushing dirt, pollen, tar, etc. across your paint and causing many imperfections in your clear coat. Properly lubricated shampoos will help lift contamination from the surface, creating a slick surface for easy contamination removal. A quality shampoo should also have the proper conditioners for your paint unlike dish soap. Dish soap, such as Dawn, will remove previous layers of wax to start with a fresh surface, however there are downsides to washing with dish soap over time. Dish soap can dry out your paint, dry out and discolor plastic, vinyl and rubber trim, and is harmful to your clear coat. There are better methods to strip the previous layers of sealant or wax that are beneficial to your paints surface, such as chemical polishes, abrasive polishes and clay barring your paint. Shampoos with conditioners work well because they can clean your freshly sealed or waxed vehicle without removing this protection.
Investing in high quality drying towels will not only save you time during the drying process while minimizing the possibility of adding swirls. Our towel of choice is a Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel. This design has a small nap to pull contamination away from the surface as well as hold large amounts of water in its pockets. In some cases, you will only need one of these 25” x 32” towels to dry your entire vehicle assuming you follow our helpful tips and techniques (which will be explained in just a moment) during the drying process, but two is always great. It is the safest product we have tested to minimize the possibility of adding swirls to your clear coat. Its also essential that your drying towel stay as clean as possible because dragging a dirty towel across the paint can add swirls and very fine scratches. Make sure you don’t dry area that were not cleaned during the washing process like door jambs.
Two 5 gallon wash buckets is a must for any wash day. The reasoning will be described in further detail as we get into the how-to part of the tutorial, but one will be filled with water and suds and the second one with just water.
Water supply and hose is pretty obvious but should not be over looked. Flooding the surface of your vehicle is the best thing for minimizing the chance of adding imperfections to your paint so plenty of water will be necessary for pre-wash, rinse and final sheet drying.
Bug and tar degreaser is a nice product to have around when you happen to run into stubborn bits of contamination that need to be pre-treated prior to the wash. The most common things this will be used on is tar, bug splatter and rail dust, but works on far more. Usually this product will be used on the lower panels, behind wheels, and the front and rear bumpers. Using a bug and tar block can also help aid in the removal of stubborn contamination so you don’t have to scrub the surface and possibly add swirls.
Step by Step Wash and Dry (Back to Menu)
How To:
Let us start by addressing some proper procedures to follow prior to actually washing the vehicle. First, find an area to work in with plenty of shade. With the sun beating on hot soapy water, it can cause water etching and spots on your vehicles paint. This will add more time in your routine removing them especially if you are just washing and drying for maintenance and not planning on doing a full routine. The paint and wheels should be cool to the touch prior to washing. Next step, take a look at your attire, no jeans, no belts, no buttons, no rivets, no zippers, and no jewelry or other potentially hazardous objects. You may ask why, but the reasoning is pretty simple, they all will easily scratch your paints surface even with very minimal pressure. Also at this time ensure that all windows are completely up and doors, hood and trunk are completely closed and remove license plates or other easily removable items from the vehicle.
Prep Stage:
1. Fill up one 5 gallon wash bucket about 3/4 full of water and the remaining 1/4 full of suds.
2. Fill up the second 5 gallon wash bucket about 1/2 full of water.
3. Soak your bug block (if using one) in warm water for 2 minutes to ensure it is safe for your paints surface.
Washing:
1. Rinse down an area of the vehicle that you plan on washing. Start from the top of the vehicle and work your way down. Also, work in sections such as front fenders and hood, or passenger side and half of the roof.
2. Walk around your vehicle and pre-treat any areas that have a lot of contamination, such as bug splatter, tar, and other road grime that may be difficult to remove, with a bug and tar degreaser.
3. Allow degreaser to sit on the contaminated surface for a few minutes (see manufacturers suggestion)
4. Dunk your wash mitt dedicated for heavily contaminated areas in the bucket of suds.
5. Gently glide your wash mitt across the areas that were treated with degreaser and heavily contaminated areas, such as, lower panels, front bumper and rear bumper.
6. Return to the second wash bucket without suds and shake out your wash mitt in the clean water to remove loose contamination in the pile of the mitt. Then place the mitt back into the bucket of suds to continue washing.
7. You can use your softened bug block in these areas if the contamination is becoming difficult to remove, use this as needed, not as a go-to step. Make sure you rinse contamination off of the bug block frequently since it does not have a thick pile to absorb contamination like the wash mitt.
8. Rinse off of each panel of the vehicle as it is completed.
9. Continue washing and rinsing the vehicle in the same fashion for all panels heavily contaminated.
10. Empty the two buckets and refill them per instructions in the prep stage listed above.
11. Dunk your second wash mitt into the suds, which should be your cleanest wash mitt, and gently glide your wash mitt across the rest of the vehicle starting top down. Work in a logical pattern and rinse the vehicle every couple of panels.
12. Return to the second wash bucket without suds and shake out your wash mitt in the clean water to remove loose contamination in the pile of the mitt. Then place the mitt back into the bucket of suds to continue washing.
13. Rinse off of each panel of the vehicle as it is completed.
14. Once the entire vehicle has been washed and rinsed, remove the spray nozzle from the hose. Starting from the top of the vehicle sheet free flowing water from the hose off of the vehicle. You should begin to notice less water accumulation on the surface compared to just rinsing off the vehicle. When working down the sides of the vehicle, move the hose from left to right while getting lower and lower, this will ensure the water floods off of the vehicle and will cut your drying time down considerably.
Drying:
1. After the vehicle has been sheeted off using the technique described above, take out your drying towels.
2. Blot-dry any large pools of water with your drying towel. This will help get the towel damp which can increase its ability to absorb.
3. Continue around the vehicle lightly wiping off any remaining water on your vehicle.
4. If you plan on using a blower or air compressor to blow out any seams and cracks this would be the time to do it.
5. Give the vehicle a final wipe down to ensure there is no water left on the vehicle.
Next Step:
The next logical step in the complete detailing process is to use a clay bar on your vehicle. Washing and drying is the foundation of any detail so you may proceed to any step next.
Understanding Clay Bar (Back to Menu)
Clay Bar is the ideal prep stage before using polishes, glazes, sealants and waxes. In order to achieve maximum shine, gloss and depth, the surface must be as clean as possible for light to pass thru the clear coat and give maximum reflection.
Take a look at the diagram above and notice how much contamination is still on the clear coat. Since you have just washed the vehicle removing the light contamination, most of this contamination is tightly bonded to the clear coat. Using the clay bar on your clear coat will help further remove both the macro-contamination (visible) as well as the micro-contamination (non-visible). With no contamination on the surface sealants and waxes can bond properly to the clear coat, which creates a more durable layer of protection. Sealants and waxes can not bond with most contaminates, so there is little to no protection where contaminates are. Applying any product over contamination can grind contaminates into the clear coat causing swirls, premature break down of detailing product, dirty applicator pads, and diminish overall results. Let the clay bar remove this surface contamination for a higher quality detail. To make the clear coat look even brighter use a polish as discussed in the next step.
Recommended Products:
- (1x) 200g Clay Bars
- (1x) Clay Lube at least 8oz
- (2x) Microfiber Towels
Clay Bar Facts:
- Using a clay bar on your paint does NOT remove swirl marks
- Using a clay bar removes contamination and better prepares your paint for the next step
- Dropped clay bars should be thrown directly into the garbage because of the high risk of picking up large contaminates that can seriously damage the vehicles finish
- Shampoo & water mixture is another alternative for clay lube, however, re-washing the vehicle is recommended prior to moving to the next step when using this mixture
- Re-washing after using a clay bar is not necessary if you properly remove any excess clay lube with a clean microfiber towel and/or a quick detail solution
- Using a clay bar should be done in small sections
- When your paints surface is not smooth you should use a clay bar
- Clay bar will remove some bug smear, tar, rail dust and other contamination tightly bound to the clear coat
- Replace clay bar when it becomes heavily contaminated
Step by Step Clay Bar (Back to Menu)
Clay Bar Overview
Clay bar will remove both micro and macro contamination so the surface is smooth and clean. The actual process on how to clay bar might intimidate some people, but it is relatively easy once you get the hang of it. If you follow these simple steps you will have effectively prepped your surface for the next step.
Prep Stage:
At this point the vehicle should be freshly washed and dried. For ease of use and best results the vehicle should be worked on in a shaded area where the paint is cool to the touch. If you have a 200g or larger size bar you should break it up into pieces. For ease of use take the piece of clay and flatten it (similar to a pancake shape). Keep the bar flat on the surface for constant contact.
Instructions for Clay Bar
- Working in 2’ x 2’ sections or small panels, mist the desired area with your clay lubricant. Make sure to use enough clay lube so the clay does not skid or stick to the paint. This can cause fine scratches and add more work to remove clay stuck to the surface.
- Place the clay within the 2’ x 2’ area and gently glide the bar left to right. You will feel the contamination being absorbed into the clay bar. Once the surface is smooth you are ready to move onto the next step.
- Using a clean microfiber towel(s), buff off the remaining clay lube.
- Now reshape the clay bar by compressing it and flattening it, so it exposes a fresh surface on the clay bar.
- Move in a logical pattern around the entire vehicle repeating the previous steps until all the desired clear coated surfaces are done.
Clay Bar Tips:
- Listening to your clay bar can also give you a good indication if the surface is clean or still has contamination.
- Some people prefer to re-wash their vehicle after using the clay bar to remove any missed clay lubricant.
- If your towel begins to streak when removing excess clay lubrication, flip it over to a dry section or use a fresh towel.
- Use plenty of clay lube to ensure smooth movement of clay bar.
- Do not apply the clay lube in direct sun or to a warm surface.
Understanding Cutting Polish (Back to Menu)
Cutting Polishes can drastically improve the condition of the clear coat. This step can help faded, oxidized, swirled and scratched clear coats look significantly better. The cutting polish helps restore a transparent clear coat, which allows for light to pass directly through the clear coat, thus creating a bright reflection with a deep shine. This step produces some of the most noticeable results that make you proud of your vehicles stunning appearance.
As the pictures show above, a cutting polish will remove a micro-thin layer of your clear coat. It helps smooth out scratches, swirls and buffs out watermarks that are etched into the clear coat. We suggest using a cutting polish once or twice a year or as needed to treat imperfections as they happen. Notice in the picture that the surface is still slightly rough, which can appear hazy from using a cutting polish. This slight haze is to be expected and will be buffed out with finer polishes, also known as finishing polishes in the next step. Finishing Polishes are explained in more detail in the next step.
Recommended Products For Machine Buffing:
- (1x) Porter Cable 7424 Buffer
- (1x) Velcro Backing Plate
- (1x) Cutting Pad or Polishing Pad
- (1x) Heavy Cutting Polish or Medium Cutting Polish
- (1x) Quick Detailer Solution
- (2 - 4x) Microfiber Towels
Recommended Products For Hand Buffing:
- (1x) Lake Country Hand Applicator w/ Appropriate Pad
or (1x) Microfiber Applicator Pad
- (1x) Heavy Cutting Polish or Medium Cutting Polish
- (2 - 4x) Microfiber Towels
Is A Buffer Necessary?
While you can still polish by hand, the results are considerably better when you use a quality buffer like the Porter Cable 7424. Below are some of the major benefits of using the PC7424 with the velcro backing plate. The velcro backing plate screws directly into the PC7424 and allows you to easily swap pads on and off. The velcro backing plate is also 6” in diameter, which evenly distributes pressure from the buffer throughout the entire 6.5” diameter of the pad. A) It saves you time and energy. When applying coat after coat by hand, you tend to get tired and slow down. Your fingertips exert pressure over a very small area so it requires many passes just to cover a small area. The 6.5" circular pad on the PC7424 can cover a larger surface area quickly and easily. The Porter Cable is only 6lbs and has two comfortable places for your hands to guide the buffer. The buffer completes 2,500 to 6,000 orbits per minute, which creates plenty of heat that is nearly impossible to duplicate by hand. On average the buffer can help you complete a coat in 50% - 75% of the time it takes to complete hand applications. B) You achieve more consistent results. When you guide the buffer across the clear coat it creates pressure that breaks down the product and works it into the clear coat. Alternatively, hand applications force you to attempt to apply the same exact force through a multiple step detailing process. Most hand applications yield varying levels of pressure that may leave the process looking slightly inconsistent or blotchy. You are exerting a lot of energy during hand applications, especially for polishes, which require steady pressure to perform their best. The Porter Cable comes with a dial that controls the buffer’s speed, so you get the exact same results throughout each coat. C) You obtain better results. Because of the Porter Cable’s random orbit pattern you will not risk burning the paint like you would with traditional rotary buffers. The even distribution of heat and pressure will break down the product evenly so the results are perfectly uniform. This uniform application is essential with polishes to make sure the clear coat is equally bright and vibrant over the entire surface. The PC7424 is compatible with a variety of different pads that help best work in certain products. For polishes you can use a firmer cutting pad or polishing pad, while waxes and sealants can be applied with the ultra soft finishing pad. The correct pad selection is crucial to achieving maximum results. If you still plan on tackling this project by hand, we strongly suggest investing in the Lake Country Hand Applicator Kit. This kit comes with an ergonomic hand applicator and a variety of pad textures to best work each different kind of product.
Step by Step Cutting Polish (Back to Menu)
Cutting Polishing Overview
One thing to keep in mind is that detailing is an art form and you will get better with experience. It is nearly impossible and generally not safe to remove every single scratch and swirl. Therefore have a realistic expectation on how much you can really buff out. Typical results will remove 50% – 80% of surface imperfection with a skilled detailer. A variety of factors will affect the results of the detail such as: manufacturer’s clear coating process, age and condition of vehicle, type of product, hand or buffer application, type of pad or applicator, skill of detailer and more. All of these factors ultimately mean that finding out what works best for your particular vehicle takes a little bit of trial and error.
Prep Stage:
At this point the vehicle should be freshly washed, dried and given a clay bar treatment if desired. For ease of use and best results the vehicle should be worked on in a shaded area where the paint is cool to the touch. Attach the appropriate pad to the Porter Cable 7424, centering the pad on the backing plate. Whether doing the application by hand or with a buffer, be sure to match the aggressiveness of the product with the aggressiveness of the pad (refer to Cutting Polishes Info). Prime the pad, especially new ones, with a couple mists of quick detailer solution. This will help keep the product on the pads surface and enhance your polishing results. A general tip for using the PC is to move relatively slow and keep the pad flat when possible.
Instructions for Machine Buffing:
- Dispense a ring of product around the outer edge of the pad. (Note: If the pad is brand new add a little extra product, so the pad doesn’t run dry)
- With the PC off smear the product over a 2’ x 2’ area on the clear coat.
- (Optional) To help spread the product you can turn the PC unit on at a low speed setting and spread the product out evenly over the 2’ x 2’ section
- Increase the speed setting to 4 - 6 and begin to apply light to medium pressure to the head of the PC unit. If the PC bogs down, you are applying too much pressure. (More experienced users may want use higher speed settings to attain better results. Newer users should start at lower speed levels)
- Start in the top left corner of your 2’ x 2’ area and move the PC from left to right at a pace of 3” per second, overlapping each pass by 50%.
- With the PC still on work the buffer from top to bottom moving at 3” per second, while overlapping each pass by 50%. Use light pressure only so the pad spins freely for this set of passes until the entire 2’ x 2’ area has been completed. After completing the 2’ x 2’ area turn the buffer off. (Note: At this time the entire 2’ x 2’ panel should have received four passes. The surface may look a little bit cloudy in direct sunlight or florescent lighting, which is normal. The next polishing step will remove any haze or cloudiness. If the polish dusts excessively, the product was overworked.)
- After a few panels take the time to wipe off excess product from the pad so it does not get saturated. Another option is to spin the buffer on a low speed and agitate it with a clean toothbrush to remove product build up the pores of the foam pad. Re-mist the pad with some quick detailer spray to increase lubrication and keep the product on the surface as needed
- Continue this entire process until the entire vehicle has been buffed.
- When finished, clean pads with Snappy Clean pad cleaners to ensure pads are in proper working condition.
Instructions for Hand Buffing:
- Dispense a quarter sized drop of product on the applicator pad.
- Spread the product and outline a 2’ x 2’ area that you plan on working the polish.
- Start in the top left corner of your 2’ x 2’ area and work the polish in small circles with medium pressure moving from left to right, overlapping each pass by 50%.
- Repeat this process moving up and down. (Note: The surface may have a slight cloudy look to it when you are finished, which is to be expected. The next step will use a finishing polish that will remove any haze or cloudiness.)
- After completing a section or panel use a paint safe microfiber towel to wipe off any remaining excess product. Replace towel if it smears or becomes saturated with product.
- Continue this process until the entire vehicle has been polished. Re-mist the pad with some quick detailer spray every couple of panels to increase lubrication and keep the product on the surface.
- Clean the applicator pad with the Snappy Clean pad cleaning solution to remove excess product and to ensure the pad is clean for the next use.
Understanding Finishing Polish (Back to Menu)
Finishing Polishes are light polishes designed to really shine the paint and restore a glossy finish. As most detailers know it’s how you prep the surface that really determines the end result of your detail. Finishing polishes will help remove old wax or sealant, oxidation, embedded contaminates, very fine surface imperfections and more. This process helps clean the clear coat, which allows more light to pass through, thus creating a deeper shine. As you can see from the picture above the cutting polish may leave a slight haze in the clear coat. Using a finishing polish will restore a brilliant gloss. The haze should be completely removed and the surface should be extremely smooth to the touch. This is the perfect step to take to prep your paint after using a cutting polish or before you use a glaze, sealant or wax.
Recommended Products For Machine Buffing:
- (1x) Porter Cable 7424 Buffer
- (1x) Velcro Backing Plate
- (1x) Polishing Pad or Finishing Pad
- (1x) Light Cutting Polish or Non-Abrasive Polish
- (1x) Quick Detailer Solution
- (1 - 3x) Microfiber Towels
Recommended Products For Hand Buffing:
- (1x) Lake Country Hand Applicator w/ Appropriate Pad
or (1x) Microfiber Applicator Pad
- (1x) Light Cutting Polish or Non-Abrasive Polish
- (1 - 3x) Microfiber Towels
Is A Buffer Necessary?
Below are some of the major benefits of using the PC7424 with the velcro backing plate. The velcro backing plate screws directly into the PC7424 and allows you to easily swap pads on and off. The velcro backing plate is also 6” in diameter, which evenly distributes pressure from the buffer throughout the entire 6.5” diameter of the pad. This ensures that you get perfectly even coverage with the sealant and that it has properly bonded to the surface. Here are some other benefits: A) It saves you time and energy. When applying coat after coat by hand, you tend to get tired and slow down. Your fingertips exert pressure over a very small area so it requires many passes just to cover a small area. The 6.5" circular pad on the PC7424 can cover a larger surface area quickly and easily. The Porter Cable is only 6lbs and has two comfortable places for your hands to guide the buffer. The buffer completes 2,500 to 6,000 orbits per minute, which creates plenty of pressure that’s nearly impossible to duplicate by hand. On average the buffer can help you complete a coat in 50% - 75% of the time it takes to complete hand applications. B) You achieve more consistent results. When you guide the buffer across the clear coat it creates pressure that breaks down the product and works it into the clear coat. Alternatively, hand applications force you to attempt to apply the same exact force through a multiple step detailing process. Most hand applications yield varying levels of pressure that may leave the process looking slightly inconsistent or blotchy. You are exerting a lot of energy during hand applications, especially for polishes, which require steady pressure to perform their best. The Porter Cable comes with a dial that controls the buffer’s speed, so you get the exact same results throughout each coat. C) You obtain better results. Because of the Porter Cable’s random orbit pattern you will not risk burning the paint like you would with traditional rotary buffers. The even distribution of heat and pressure will break down the product evenly so the results are perfectly uniform. This uniform application is essential for even protection and shine over all the clear-coated surfaces. The PC7424 is compatible with a variety of different pads that help best work in certain products. Sealants and waxes should generally be applied with a soft finishing pad. The correct pad selection is crucial to achieving maximum results.
Step by Step Finishing Polish (Back to Menu)
Finishing Polishes Overview
One thing to keep in mind is that detailing is an art form and you’ll get better with experience. It is nearly impossible and generally not safe to remove every single scratch and swirl. Therefore have a realistic expectation on how much you can really buff out. Typical results will remove 15% -50% of surface imperfections and 50% – 80% when used in combination with a cutting polish and applied by a skilled detailer. A variety of factors will affect the results of the detail such as: manufacturer’s clear coating process, age and condition of vehicle, type of product, hand or buffer application, type of pad or applicator, skill of detailer and more. All of these factors ultimately mean that finding out what works best for your particular vehicle takes a little bit of trial and error.
Prep Stage:
At this point the vehicle should be freshly washed, dried and already treated with clay bar and a cutting polish if desired. For ease of use and best results the vehicle should be worked on in a shaded area where the paint is cool to the touch. Attach the appropriate pad to the Porter Cable 7424, centering the pad on the backing plate. Whether doing the application by hand or with a buffer be sure to match the aggressiveness of the product with the aggressiveness of the pad (refer to Finishing Polishes Info). Prime the pad, especially new ones, with a couple mists of quick detailer solution. This will help keep the product on the pads surface and enhance your polishing results. A general tip for using the PC is to move relatively slow and keep the pad flat when possible.
Instructions for Machine Buffing:
- Dispense a ring of product around the outer edge of the pad. (Note: If the pad is brand new add a little extra product, so the pad does not run dry)
- With the PC off smear the product over a 2’ x 2’ area on the clear coat.
- (Optional) To help spread the product you can turn the PC unit on at a low speed setting and spread the product out evenly over the 2’ x 2’ section
- Increase the speed setting to 4 - 6 and begin to apply light to medium pressure to the head of the PC unit. If the PC bogs down, you are applying too much pressure. (More experienced users may want use higher speed settings to attain better results. Newer users should start at lower speed levels.)
- Start in the top left corner of your 2’ x 2’ area and move the PC from left to right at a pace of 3” per second, overlapping each pass by 50%.
- With the PC still on work the buffer from top to bottom moving at 3" per second, while overlapping each pass by 50%. Use light pressure only so the pad spins freely for this set of passes until the entire 2' x 2' area has been completed. After completing the 2' x 2' area turn the buffer off. (Note: At this time the entire 2' x 2' panel should have received four passes. If the polish dusts excessively, the product was overworked.)
- After completing a section or panel use a paint safe microfiber towel to wipe off any remaining excess product. Replace towel if it smears or becomes saturated with product.
- After a few panels take the time to wipe off excess product from the pad so it does not get saturated. Another option is to spin the buffer on a low speed and agitate it with a clean toothbrush to remove product build up the pores of the foam pad. Re-mist the pad with some quick detailer spray to increase lubrication and keep the product on the surface as needed
- Continue this entire process until the entire vehicle has been buffed.
- When finished, clean pads with Snappy Clean pad cleaners to ensure pads are in proper working condition.
Instructions for Hand Buffing:
- Dispense a quarter sized drop of product on the applicator pad.
- Spread the product and outline a 2’ x 2’ area that you plan on working the polish
- Start in the top left corner of your 2’ x 2’ area and work the polish in small circles with medium pressure moving from left to right, overlapping each pass by 50%.
- Repeat this process moving up and down.
- After completing a section or panel use a paint safe microfiber towel to wipe off any remaining excess product. Replace towel if it smears or becomes saturated with product.
- Continue this process until the entire vehicle has been polished. Re-mist the pad with some quick detailer spray every couple of panels to increase lubrication and keep the product on the surface.
- Clean the applicator pad with the Snappy Clean pad cleaning solution to remove excess product and to ensure the pad is clean for the next use.
Understanding Glazing (Back to Menu)
Glazing your paint is a step that many professional detailers have used for years that is now becoming popular among weekend detailers. The reason glazes are so popular is for how well they work at hiding imperfections and adding gloss to the finish. True glazes are ultra fine polishes designed to cling to imperfections and fill them in. The oils in the glaze will reflect the color of the surrounding paint to make the paint’s finish look uniform. The glaze will also make the surface look rich and glossy for a show room finish. This is a perfect step for: after using polishes, newer vehicles that do not want to use polishes yet, vehicle’s entered in shows and anyone looking to really make their paint “pop”.
The picture above shows how the glaze will help fill in and hide swirls and scratches that could not be removed by buffing. The oil fillers cling to the sides of the imperfection and optically make the paint look like the imperfections have disappeared or been reduced. Make sure you follow up with a sealant or wax to protect the glaze and extend its life. This is discussed in detail during the next step.
Recommended Products For Machine Buffing:
- (1x) Porter Cable 7424 Buffer
- (1x) Velcro Backing Plate
- (1x) Polishing Pad or Finishing Pad
- (1x) Glaze
- (1x) Quick Detailer Solution
- (1 - 3x) Microfiber Towels
Recommended Products For Hand Buffing:
- (1x) Lake Country Hand Applicator w/ Appropriate Pad
or (1x) Microfiber Applicator Pad
- (1x) Glaze
- (1 - 3x) Microfiber Towels
Is A Buffer Necessary?
While you can still polish by hand, the results are considerably better when you use a quality buffer like the Porter Cable 7424. Below are some of the major benefits of using the PC7424 with the velcro backing plate. The velcro backing plate screws directly into the PC7424 and allows you to easily swap pads on and off. The velcro backing plate is also 6” in diameter, which evenly distributes pressure from the buffer throughout the entire 6.5” diameter of the pad.
A) It saves you time and energy. When applying coat after coat by hand, you tend to get tired and slow down. Your fingertips exert pressure over a very small area so it requires many passes just to cover a small area. The 6.5" circular pad on the PC7424 can cover a larger surface area quickly and easily. The Porter Cable is only 6lbs and has two comfortable places for your hands to guide the buffer. The buffer completes 2,500 to 6,000 orbits per minute, which creates plenty of pressure that’s nearly impossible to duplicate by hand. On average the buffer can help you complete a coat in 50% - 75% of the time it takes to complete hand applications.
B) You achieve more consistent results. When you guide the buffer across the clear coat it creates pressure that breaks down the product and works it into the clear coat. Alternatively, hand applications force you to attempt to apply the same exact force through a multiple step detailing process. Most hand applications yield varying levels of pressure that may leave the process looking slightly inconsistent or blotchy. You are exerting a lot of energy during hand applications, especially for polishes, which require steady pressure to perform their best. The Porter Cable comes with a dial that controls the buffer’s speed, so you get the exact same results throughout each coat.
C) You obtain better results. Because of the Porter Cable’s random orbit pattern you will not risk burning the paint like you would with traditional rotary buffers. The even distribution of heat and pressure will break down the product evenly so the results are perfectly uniform. This uniform application is essential with polishes to make sure the clear coat is equally bright and vibrant over the entire surface. The PC7424 is compatible with a variety of different pads that help best work in certain products. For polishes you can use a firmer cutting pad or polishing pad, while waxes and sealants can be applied with the ultra soft finishing pad. The correct pad selection is crucial to achieving maximum results.
Step by Step Glazing (Back to Menu)
Glaze Overview
Glazes can really make the paint glow and look its best. You’ll be very happy with the deep shine that a glaze leaves behind. This step will not remove swirls and other imperfections but it will fill them in as you can see in the picture above. A variety of factors will affect the results of the detail such as: manufacturer’s clear coating process, age and condition of vehicle, type of product, hand or buffer application, type of pad or applicator, skill of detailer and more. All of these factors ultimately mean that finding out what works best for your particular vehicle takes a little bit of trial and error.
Prep Stage:
At this point the vehicle should be freshly washed, dried and already treated with clay bar, cutting polish and finishing polish if desired. For ease of use and best results the vehicle should be worked on in a shaded area where the paint is cool to the touch. Attach the appropriate pad to the Porter Cable 7424, centering the pad on the backing plate. Whether doing the application by hand or with a buffer be sure to match the aggressiveness of the product with the aggressiveness of the pad (refer to Glazes Info). Prime the pad, especially new ones, with a couple mists of quick detailer solution. This will help keep the product on the pads surface and enhance your results. A general tip for using the PC is to move relatively slow and keep the pad flat when possible.
Instructions for Machine Glazing:
- Dispense a ring of product around the outer edge of the pad. (Note: If the pad is brand new add a little extra product, so the pad does not run dry)
- With the PC off smear the product over a 2’ x 2’ area on the clear coat.
- Turn on the PC and with the speed setting between 3 – 5. Begin to apply light pressure to the head of the PC unit. If the PC bogs down, you are applying too much pressure.
- Start in the top left corner of your 2’ x 2’ area and move the PC from left to right at a pace of 3” per second, overlapping each pass by 50%.
- With the PC still on work the buffer from top to bottom moving at 3" per second, while overlapping each pass by 50%. Use light pressure only so the pad spins freely for this set of passes until the entire 2' x 2' area has been completed. After completing the 2' x 2' area turn the buffer off. (Note: At this time the entire 2' x 2' panel should have received four passes.)
- After completing a section or panel use a paint safe microfiber towel to wipe off any remaining excess product. Replace towel if it smears or becomes saturated with product.
- After a few panels take the time to wipe off excess product from the pad so it does not get saturated. Another option is to spin the buffer on a low speed and agitate it with a clean toothbrush to remove product build up the pores of the foam pad. Re-mist the pad with some quick detailer spray to increase lubrication and keep the product on the surface as needed
- Continue this entire process until the entire vehicle has been buffed.
- When finished, clean pads with Snappy Clean pad cleaners to ensure pads are in proper working condition.
Instructions for Hand Buffing:
- Dispense a nickel to quarter sized drop of product on the applicator pad.
- Spread the product and outline a 2’ x 2’ area that you plan on working the glaze.
- Start in the top left corner of your 2’ x 2’ area and work the polish in small circles with medium pressure moving from left to right, overlapping each pass by 50%.
- Repeat this process moving up and down.
- After completing a section or panel use a paint safe microfiber towel to wipe off any remaining excess product. Replace towel if it smears or becomes saturated with product.
- Continue this process until the entire vehicle has been glazed. Re-mist the pad with some quick detailer spray every couple of panels to increase lubrication and keep the product on the surface.
- Clean the applicator pad with the Snappy Clean pad cleaning solution to remove excess product and to ensure the pad is clean for the next use.
Understanding Sealant (Back to Menu)
Sealants are made in labs to replicate what waxes do, but better. In general sealants give you a longer lasting shine and better protection than natural waxes. For best results make sure you have taken all the necessary preparation steps to clean and smooth out the clear coat. The cleaner and smoother the clear coat is, the better the sealant will bond to it. As the picture above shows, the sealant will adhere to the clear coat, providing a micro thin barrier of protection. The very high melting point of sealants makes them more durable and resistant to nature’s elements, abrasions and harmful contaminates. Contaminates have a more difficult time bonding to the clear coat, through the sealant, therefore its easier to remove contaminates during the washing process. Sealants typically give you full protection for 3 – 12 months depending on the sealant you select and how many coats are applied. It will also enhance the looks of the vehicle by providing a more reflective surface. To add even more depth and gloss to the paint, consider doing multiple coats or applying a wax over the sealant, which is discussed in the next step.
Recommended Products For Machine Buffing:
- (1x) Porter Cable 7424 Buffer
- (1x) Velcro Backing Plate
- (1x) Polishing Pad or Finishing Pad
- (1x) Sealant
- (1x) Quick Detailer Solution
- (1 - 3x) Microfiber Towels
Recommended Products For Hand Buffing:
- (1x) Lake Country Hand Applicator w/ Appropriate Pad
or (1x) Microfiber Applicator Pad
- (1x) Sealant
- (1 - 3x) Microfiber Towels
Is A Buffer Necessary?
Below are some of the major benefits of using the PC7424 with the velcro backing plate. The velcro backing plate screws directly into the PC7424 and allows you to easily swap pads on and off. The velcro backing plate is also 6” in diameter, which evenly distributes pressure from the buffer throughout the entire 6.5” diameter of the pad. This ensures that you get perfectly even coverage with the sealant and that it has properly bonded to the surface. Here are some other benefits:
A) It saves you time and energy. When applying coat after coat by hand, you tend to get tired and slow down. Your fingertips exert pressure over a very small area so it requires many passes just to cover a small area. The 6.5" circular pad on the PC7424 can cover a larger surface area quickly and easily. The Porter Cable is only 6lbs and has two comfortable places for your hands to guide the buffer. The buffer completes 2,500 to 6,000 orbits per minute, which creates plenty of pressure that’s nearly impossible to duplicate by hand. On average the buffer can help you complete a coat in 50% - 75% of the time it takes to complete hand applications.
B) You achieve more consistent results. When you guide the buffer across the clear coat it creates pressure that breaks down the product and works it into the clear coat. Alternatively, hand applications force you to attempt to apply the same exact force through a multiple step detailing process. Most hand applications yield varying levels of pressure that may leave the process looking slightly inconsistent or blotchy. You are exerting a lot of energy during hand applications, especially for polishes, which require steady pressure to perform their best. The Porter Cable comes with a dial that controls the buffer’s speed, so you get the exact same results throughout each coat.
C) You obtain better results. Because of the Porter Cable’s random orbit pattern you will not risk burning the paint like you would with traditional rotary buffers. The even distribution of heat and pressure will break down the product evenly so the results are perfectly uniform. This uniform application is essential for even protection and shine over all the clear-coated surfaces. The PC7424 is compatible with a variety of different pads that help best work in certain products. Sealants and waxes should generally be applied with a soft finishing pad. The correct pad selection is crucial to achieving maximum results.
Step by Step Sealant (Back to Menu)
Sealant Overview
Sealants are a great way to protect your vehicles painted surfaces and increase the shine. They will adhere tightly to the clear coat with light pressure from your arm or buffer. The surface should shine bright and vibrant after applying a sealant. The protection will last anywhere from 3 – 12 months depending on conditions such as: previous steps in the detailing process, manufacturer’s clear coating process, age and condition of vehicle, temperature, sealant used, how many coats are applied, hand or buffer application, type of pad or applicator, skill of detailer and more. All of these factors ultimately mean that finding out what works best for your particular vehicle takes a little bit of trial and error.
Prep Stage:
At this point the vehicle should be freshly washed, dried and already treated with clay bar, cutting polish, finishing polish and glaze if desired. For ease of use and best results the vehicle should be worked on in a shaded area where the paint is cool to the touch. Attach the appropriate pad to the Porter Cable 7424, centering the pad on the backing plate. Whether doing the application by hand or with a buffer be sure to match the aggressiveness of the product with the aggressiveness of the pad (refer to Sealants Info). Prime the pad, especially new ones, with a couple mists of quick detailer solution. This will help keep the product on the pads surface and enhance your results. A general tip for using the PC is to move relatively slow and keep the pad flat when possible.
Instructions for Machine Glazing:
- Dispense a thin ring of product around the outer edge of the pad. (Note: If the pad is brand new add a little extra product, so the pad does not run dry)
- With the PC off smear the product over a 2’ x 2’ area on the clear coat.
- Turn on the PC and with the speed setting between 3 – 5. Begin to apply light pressure to the head of the PC unit. If the PC bogs down, you are applying too much pressure.
- Start in the top left corner of your 2’ x 2’ area and move the PC from left to right at a pace of 3” per second, overlapping each pass by 50%.
- With the PC still on work the buffer from top to bottom moving at 3" per second, while overlapping each pass by 50%. Use light pressure only so the pad spins freely for this set of passes until the entire 2' x 2' area has been completed. After completing the 2' x 2' area turn the buffer off. (Note: At this time the entire 2' x 2' panel should have received four passes.)
- After completing a section or panel use a paint safe microfiber towel to wipe off any remaining excess product. Replace towel if it smears or becomes saturated with product.
- After a few panels take the time to wipe off excess product from the pad so it does not get saturated. Another option is to spin the buffer on a low speed and agitate it with a clean toothbrush to remove product build up the pores of the foam pad. Re-mist the pad with some quick detailer spray to increase lubrication and keep the product on the surface as needed
- Continue this entire process until the entire vehicle has been buffed.
- When finished, clean pads with Snappy Clean pad cleaners to ensure pads are in proper working condition.
Instructions for Hand Buffing:
- Dispense a nickel to quarter sized drop of product on the applicator pad.
- Spread the product and outline a 2’ x 2’ area that you plan on working the sealant.
- Start in the top left corner of your 2’ x 2’ area and work the polish in small circles with medium pressure moving from left to right, overlapping each pass by 50%.
- Repeat this process moving up and down.
- After completing a section or panel use a paint safe microfiber towel to wipe off any remaining excess product. Replace towel if it smears or becomes saturated with product.
- Continue this process until the entire vehicle has been glazed. Re-mist the pad with some quick detailer spray every couple of panels to increase lubrication and keep the product on the surface.
- Clean the applicator pad with the Snappy Clean pad cleaning solution to remove excess product and to ensure the pad is clean for the next use.
Understanding Wax (Back to Menu)
Waxing can be the most rewarding step in the detailing process whether it’s just after washing or following a multi-step process. They add a highly reflective layer so your paint will reflect more light thus creating a brighter shine. This gives your vehicle a deep glossy finish that really makes the paint stand out. Waxes offer protection against UV Rays, contaminates, moisture and extend the life of underlying coats of sealants. These natural waxes do not last as long as sealants so we recommend applying a wax on top of a sealant as mentioned in the previous step for increased protection and shine. Most waxes will bond well to sealants so you get the best of both worlds.
Recommended Products For Machine Buffing:
- (1x) Porter Cable 7424 Buffer
- (1x) Velcro Backing Plate
- (1x) Polishing Pad or Finishing Pad
- (1x) Wax
- (1x) Quick Detailer Solution
- (1 - 3x) Microfiber Towels
Recommended Products For Hand Buffing:
- (1x) Lake Country Hand Applicator w/ Appropriate Pad
or (1x) Microfiber Applicator Pad
- (1x) Wax
- (1 - 3x) Microfiber Towels
Is A Buffer Necessary?
Below are some of the major benefits of using the PC7424 with the velcro backing plate. The velcro backing plate screws directly into the PC7424 and allows you to easily swap pads on and off. The velcro backing plate is also 6” in diameter, which evenly distributes pressure from the buffer throughout the entire 6.5” diameter of the pad. This ensures that you get perfectly even coverage with the sealant and that it has properly bonded to the surface. Here are some other benefits:
A) It saves you time and energy. When applying coat after coat by hand, you tend to get tired and slow down. Your fingertips exert pressure over a very small area so it requires many passes just to cover a small area. The 6.5" circular pad on the PC7424 can cover a larger surface area quickly and easily. The Porter Cable is only 6lbs and has two comfortable places for your hands to guide the buffer. The buffer completes 2,500 to 6,000 orbits per minute, which creates plenty of pressure that’s nearly impossible to duplicate by hand. On average the buffer can help you complete a coat in 50% - 75% of the time it takes to complete hand applications.
B) You achieve more consistent results. When you guide the buffer across the clear coat it creates pressure that breaks down the product and works it into the clear coat. Alternatively, hand applications force you to attempt to apply the same exact force through a multiple step detailing process. Most hand applications yield varying levels of pressure that may leave the process looking slightly inconsistent or blotchy. You are exerting a lot of energy during hand applications, especially for polishes, which require steady pressure to perform their best. The Porter Cable comes with a dial that controls the buffer’s speed, so you get the exact same results throughout each coat.
C) You obtain better results. Because of the Porter Cable’s random orbit pattern you will not risk burning the paint like you would with traditional rotary buffers. The even distribution of heat and pressure will break down the product evenly so the results are perfectly uniform. This uniform application is essential for even protection and shine over all the clear-coated surfaces. The PC7424 is compatible with a variety of different pads that help best work in certain products. Sealants and waxes should generally be applied with a soft finishing pad. The correct pad selection is crucial to achieving maximum results.
Step by Step Wax (Back to Menu)
Waxing Overview
Waxing is a great way to really enhance the depth and gloss of your vehicle’s paint. When you have the right wax it can take your paint to another level where the paint really “pops”. These waxes will give you protection against harmful UV rays, contaminates, moisture and more. This protection is essential to preserving your vehicle’s finish. Most natural waxes will protect your painted surfaces for 2 – 8 weeks. We recommend layering waxes over sealants for increased protection, which is discussed in the previous step.
Prep Stage:
At this point the vehicle should be freshly washed, dried and already treated with clay bar, cutting polish, finishing polish, glaze and sealant if desired. For ease of use and best results the vehicle should be worked on in a shaded area where the paint is cool to the touch. Attach the appropriate pad to the Porter Cable 7424, centering the pad on the backing plate. Whether doing the application by hand or with a buffer be sure to match the aggressiveness of the product with the aggressiveness of the pad (refer to Waxes Info). Prime the pad, especially new ones, with a couple mists of quick detailer solution. This will help keep the product on the pads surface and enhance your results. A general tip for using the PC is to move relatively slow and keep the pad flat when possible.
Instructions for Machine Buffing:
- Dispense a thin ring of product around the outer edge of the pad. (Note: If the pad is brand new add a little extra product, so the pad doesn’t run dry)
- With the PC off smear the product over a 2’ x 2’ area on the clear coat.
- Turn on the PC and with the speed setting between 3 – 5. Begin to apply light pressure to the head of the PC unit. If the PC bogs down, you are applying too much pressure.
- Start in the top left corner of your 2’ x 2’ area and move the PC from left to right at a pace of 3” per second, overlapping each pass by 50%.
- With the PC still on work the buffer from top to bottom moving at 3" per second, while overlapping each pass by 50%. Use light pressure only so the pad spins freely for this set of passes until the entire 2' x 2' area has been completed. After completing the 2' x 2' area turn the buffer off. (Note: At this time the entire 2' x 2' panel should have received four passes.)
- After completing a section or panel use a paint safe microfiber towel to wipe off any remaining excess product After a few panels take the time to wipe off excess product from the pad so it does not get saturated. Another option is to spin the buffer on a low speed and agitate it with a clean toothbrush to remove product build up the pores of the foam pad. Re-mist the pad with some quick detailer spray to increase lubrication and keep the product on the surface as needed
- After a few panels take the time to wipe off excess product from the pad so it does not get saturated. Another option is to spin the buffer on a low speed and agitate it with a clean toothbrush to remove product build up the pores of the foam pad.
- Continue this entire process until the entire vehicle has been buffed.
- When finished, clean pads with Snappy Clean pad cleaners to ensure pads are in proper working condition.
Instructions for Hand Buffing:
- Dispense a nickel to quarter sized drop of product on the applicator pad.
- Spread the product and outline a 2’ x 2’ area that you plan on working the sealant.
- Start in the top left corner of your 2’ x 2’ area and work the polish in small circles with medium pressure moving from left to right, overlapping each pass by 50%.
- Repeat this process moving up and down.
- After completing a section or panel use a paint safe microfiber towel to wipe off any remaining excess product. Replace towel if it smears or becomes saturated with product.
- Continue this process until the entire vehicle has been glazed. Re-mist the pad with some quick detailer spray every couple of panels to increase lubrication and keep the product on the surface.
- Clean the applicator pad with the Snappy Clean pad cleaning solution to remove excess product and to ensure the pad is clean for the next use.
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